So here are some scenarios;
Your bead doesn’t want to stick to the tip/ form when you press it down
Your bead sticks to the brush and peaks up like the top of a meringue when you lift you brush up and away
Your bead is lumpy and hard to manouvre
Your bead runs across the nail and into the soft tissue
Your nails keep ending up flat with no apex
The nails always lift even though you did enough PREP
you occasionally get pocket lifts in the centre of the nail
Believe it or not all of these scenarios can be attributed (not solely) to your mix ratio.
Now if you are wondering what what mix ratio is or what ratio you should be working at, then you need to refer back to your education manuals! You should have been taught about this on your foundation/ beginners course and if can’t remember – refresh yourself, if you weren’t taught then you’ll want to educate yourself on this as it can be the reason people stop practicing and give up.
Now the key is CONSISTENCY, I have written this in bold because it is part of my advise so often, but is so important.
My suggestion is to start with a basic routine, so here is my 5 steps to getting the perfect mix ratio
1. Fill your brush
2. Wipe your brush once on the side of the dappen dish
3. ‘PRESS’ into your powder 3 times
4. Look at the bead on your brush
I will be going into more detail in some new educational tutorials I have planned coming up but the one thing I will give you a heads up on now is the picking up of the powder.
You’ll notice I wrote “PRESS” in caps lock too because I have seen tech’s dragging through the powder or pushing the tip of the brush directly down into the powder, now both of these in my opinion are not great options for a consistent bead piece up and this is why:
Dragging through the powder means 2 things, sometimes you drag a longer line and sometimes a shorter line so consistency is a problem from the start. Secondly as you drag through the powder some excess powder collects on top of the bead which the bead could be way too dry, then you figure this out and try to tap the brush or try to flick the excess off, which again leaves margin for error, and if you are trying to find a great routine that you can pop on autopilot whilst you chat with your client and make her feels like you are amazing at your job!
The solution is to ‘press’ into the powder a specific number of times and the downward pressing means you get a completely even pick up all on one side of the brush so you then get a clean press onto the nail.
If you start with this routine and do the same every time you pick up a bead, you’ll then be able to make one small alteration at a time to get the perfect bead.
It is worth pointing out, that each brand has the perfect mix ratio which works for that brand, so if you are unsure about the mix ratio of the brand you are using, then is definitely work contacting them directly (rather than asking facebook where you get people’s opinions ..) this way you get the actual advice you need and then know exactly what you are aiming for.
Its also important to note that we all apply different pressures when working so don’t worry if someone else you know presses into her powder 4 times and gets perfect results, YOU have to find the perfect pick up for you so I start all of my students on the routine above and work individually from there.
Last couple of things before you go and start practicing your perfect pickup routine…If you get a great bead pickup the bead will do ALL of the work for you, you will simply need to guide the product into place and smooth and on that note, you will find it so much easier to gain better nail structure and apex, so if that has been an issue for you then look out for next weeks post where I will be talking about the angel of your brush during application and how much less work you could be doing!
Until next time, you know where I am if you need any training, help or business support. Leave me a comment if you enjoyed the read or if this helped you get started sorting your mix ratio woe’s.