Lifting a hooked nail

There are many challenges you face as a nail tech and what VTCT deem ‘awkward natural nails’ are common:

  • Bitten Nails – got to be top of the list!
  • Hooked nails
  • Ski jump nails
  • Fan nails

The list could go on, but these are the most common.

Bitten nails is a massive topic to cover and I will address this in another blog post for you, but right now I have just rebalanced my own nails after an infill 3 1/2weeks ago then this afternoon I answered a few questions on social media that led to remind myself to write about my own, lovely but slightly hooked nails, that after nearly 4 weeks are always still in tact with no issues but angling down as they grow out.

This is my nail before I rebalanced:

you can see above now I have removed the gel polish colour how much the enhancement has grown out.

Above I have bevelled zone 3 right down and prepped the natural nail.

It is prudent to note the downward angle of the nail. Notice the lower arch is nice and straight but angled downwards. This isn’t a good look! The enhancements lower arch should follow the same line as the finger when pulled out straight. So not pointing up and not pointing down as this nail now is.

So at this point all I have done is removed the gel polish colour, thinner and made zone 3 flush to the natural nail and prepped the natural nail ready for the new application.

Then I applied fresh L&P to zone 1! Yes it makes it super thick at the free edge… go with it…blend the application into zone 2 to make the upper arch more level than tilting down.

Next apply a bead at zone 3 remembering the angle of your brush from the previous blog post Excuse me Miss, Whats you angle??

This is your application complete.

Next step is to thin out the enhancement at zone 3, now bear in mind we are trying to ‘lift’ the upper and lower arches to look more asthetically pleasing as well and structurally sound so we are going to e-file with a thin barrel diamond drill bit UNDERNEATH the enhancement! This will counteract the hook and re-establish the balance back into the enhancement.

After you have thinned from underneath, you are free to file the rest of the surface of the nail as usual to refine and achieve the correct shape.

And voila!

A rebalanced nail which is once again structurally sound.

If you need further help on rebalancing, structure or e-filing make sure you get in touch. I travel around the world educating nail techs from 1-2-1’s to group salon training or college workshops, just get in touch and I’ll support you, whatever your requirements or goals.

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